. Bulletin - United States National Museum. La science. Figure 56.-Harris brevet des coupe-fil, 1872. (Smithsonian photo P-6397.) Figure 57.-• le brevet de l'Ouest coupe-fil, 1874. (Smithsonian photo P-63100.). Figure 58.-Karr"s'enfileur d'aiguille sur les brevets, 1871 (Smithsonian photo P-63101.) l'armée a acheté 473 000 paires, mais en 1871, le quartier-maître général a écrit : aucune plainte concernant la qualité de ces chaussures ont été reçues jusqu'à février 1867, lorsqu'un conseil d'enquête, qui s'est réunie à Hart's Island, le port de New York a signalé sur la qualité inférieure de certaine machine cousu des chaussons M

• Contributeur: Book Worm
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. Bulletin - United States National Museum. Science. Figure 56.—Harris' patent thread cutter, 1872. (Smithsonian photo P-6397.) Figure 57.—• West's patent thread cutter, 1874. (Smithsonian photo P-63100.). Figure 58.—Karr"s patent needle threader, 1871 (Smithsonian photo P-63101.) the Army purchased 473, 000 pairs, but in 1871 the Quartermaster General wrote: No complaints regarding the quality of these shoes were received up to February 1867 when a Board of Survey, which convened at Hart's Island, New York Harbor reported upon the inferior quality of certain machine sewed bootees of the McKay patent, issued to the en- listed men at that post. The acting Quartermaster General, Col. D. H. Rucker, April 10, 1867, addressed a letter to all the officers in charge of depots, with instructions not to issue any more of the shoes in question, but to report to this office the quantity remaining in store. From these reports it appears that there were in store at that time 362, 012 pairs M. S. Bootees, all of which were ordered to be, and have since been sold at public auction.81 The exact complaint against the shoes was not re- corded. Possibly the entire shoe was stitched by machine. It was found that although machine-stitched shoes were more durable in some respects and the upper parts of most shoes continued to be machine stitched, pegged soles for the more durable varieties remained the fashion for a decade or more, as did custom hand-stitched shoes for those who could afford them. the shoe in the early and mid-1850s, it was not until 1858 that a machine was invented that could stitch the sole to the inner sole and to the upper part of the shoe. This was the invention of Lyman R. Blake and was patented by him on July 8, 1858; the patent model is shown in figure 55. Blake formed a chain- stitch by using a hooked needle, which descended from above, to draw a thread through the supporting arm. Serving as the machine's bedplate, the arm was shaped to accommodate th

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