Histoire de l'American Textile : avec vampires et industries auxiliaires (illustré) . f le reavingand^v Méthode de la quantité de travail main constantlynecessary. SMYRNAFor longtemps le Smyrne a été plus sur the grade seulement qui pourrait être qualifiée de l'AAS et la production de tapis a progressé à grands titres. Ancrer le nom est dérivé du fait que les plis sont enracinés à gether. Les fils de couleur sont placés qui inshuttles forthacross sont rejetés et le métier à tisser à travers les warps, theJacquard thepattern formant les couleurs de régulation. La chaîne qui unit le plieswhere il n'y a pas de figure ou lorsque la figu

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History of American textiles : with kindred and auxiliary industries (illustrated) . f the method of v^reavingand the amount of hand work constantlynecessary. SMYRNAFor a long time the Smyrna was aboutthe only grade which could be classed asa rug and the production grew to great titles. The name ingrain is derived fromthe fact that the plies are ingrained to-gether. The colored yarns are placed inshuttles which are thrown back and forthacross the loom through the warps, theJacquard regulating the colors forming thepattern. The warp unites the two plieswhere there is no figure or where the figurechanges. Where there is any amount ofone color or combination of colors the twoplies are separate and in wear, these places, called pockets, give out first, so it is usu-ally desirable to have a design well knitup with frequent changes. At first onlytwo colors were used, then four, with alimited application until the invention in1885 by Harry Hardwick of Philadelphiaof the mate-thread or Bromley weave.By this new method the same colors couldbe used in combinations not previously. Ingrain proportions; but, like the ingrain, it isnot as prominent as formerly in the realmsof carpetdom. It is an imitation of theSmyrna or Turkish rugs, hence the name.Smyrna is a thick. Chenille, double-facedfabric made somewhat in the manner ofChenille Axminster, except that the smallstrips remain flat and strike out on boththe face and back, making both sides iden-tical. INGRAINIngrain is, or was until very recently, probably the best know^n carpet in thiscountry, but has largely gone out of pop-ularity, although in the aggregate a largeyardage is annually made and sold. It isof Scotch origin, but in the early days w^asknown as Kidderminster carpet. Ingrainis a soft, flat fabric, the same on both sides, except that the colors are reversed. It ismostly made in two-ply, although three-plywas formerly made in considerable quan- possible. Later Mr. Hardwick invented theAgra w^eave in which the plies w^e

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