Ruelles dans le sud de la Toscane . Elle supplie moi toenter. *Nous sommes pauvres, très pauvres, Signora, mais vous arewelcome de venir s'il y a quelque chose ici pour voir. Elle une belle petite place, un modèle de ménage condensé,voce, le lit et la table à manger étaient tous comme presentbut bien disposés que pourrait être pour l'espace. Je me suis arrêté tolook de sa fenêtre, pour se tenir là était d'aplomb comme abird au milieu de l'air ; le mur de sa maison s'est réuni le bord d'acliff^, une centaine de pieds au-dessous de la rivière, et brilla au-dessus de andbeyond jeter une telle beauté que de glorifier le plus meagerdwelling. Avec empressement, elle a indiqué les points d'inter

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Byways in southern Tuscany . She begged me toenter. *We are poor, very poor, Signora, but you arewelcome to come in if there is anything here to see. Itwas a neat little place, a model of condensed housekeeping, the focolare, the bed and the dining table were all presentbut as well disposed as might be for space. I stopped tolook from her window, for to stand there was to poise like abird in mid air; the wall of her house met the edge of acliff^, a hundred feet below shone the river, and above andbeyond lay such beauty as to glorify the most meagredwelling. She eagerly indicated points of interest and, as is the custom, we united in agreeing that the fresh airaflPorded by this position was unparalleled. As to thefocolare, we discussed its completeness. It was deep, itwas wide, several members of the family could sit in itmost comfortably; besides the usual bench on the leftthere was upon the right a wider seat with a back and thishad been extended into the room and, by means of short 279 BYWAYS IN SOUTHERN TUSCANY. The Focolare legs within and long, well-spread ones without, was admir-ably firm. The tops of the andirons were fashioned intobaskets to hold sauce-pans, and below the hearth a largedrawer for keeping food hot could be pulled out; last touchof all was a little window cut through the chimney towardthe best light. Each contrivance was explained withpride to my appreciative attention and then we partedwith the amenities proper to the occasion. Her speechwas charming and she had all the ready and courteousfriendliness of the best Tuscan peasantry. These waysideacquaintanceships are so pleasant that one would likethem to be less brief. The castle of Sorano surmounts a splendid ledge morethan a hundred feet above the town. To explore andunderstand it, it is well to begin at the south portal which 280 BYWAYS IN SOUTHERN TUSCANY bears above it the grandiose coat of arms, florid but beau-tiful, that combines the Aldobrandeschi lion with theOrsini rose. Outside it is

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